Sunday, November 22, 2009

Venison Stock... Dem Bones

Aaah, there is nothing like using fresh stock for cooking. I procured some beautiful venison bones from a local butcher that is well known for processing game. So I was thinking of how I wanted to make some amazing, extra special stock to sell in the shop and for preparing sauces for my catering clients.
I thought about the 200 or so spices and herbs I currently possess. Since venison can be so strong in flavor, I want to celebrate and enhance the differences of using venison bones as opposed to using beef bones but mellow any edginess they might have. Another important factor is that this stock will be used in winter time. So, a bit more boldness in flavor is welcome.
To begin, I brush tomato paste on my bones and broil them in a single layer until browned. This will bring out the flavor. Yep, I decided this was a necessary first step, just like beef stock. Now back to my spices and herbs....hmmm, I like the idea of star anise, cinnamon and ginger to start. Not too much of any of these but a delicate presence will be divine. Now let's back that up with some classics.... garlic, bay leaf, peppercorns, parsley (always a great flavor filter), onion, definitely thyme, some chopped carrots and celery too.
Put all those goodies in a large heavy bottom pot and cover with fresh water. Leave it alone. Don't mess with it and don't add salt. I learned from an elderly Asian chef a long time ago to never salt anything in the beginning stages of cooking. Salt can bring out bitterness and with seafood, it makes seafood tough. I always salt at the end of cooking, and I often do not salt my stocks at all. There is plenty of time to adjust the flavors later.
Bring this big cauldron of goodies to a strong simmer, not a full boil. When reaching this point, back down on your flame so the surface is not disturbed while continuing to simmer. I usually brew a full stock pot for 2-3 hours undisturbed. You might want to skim the surface if you see a lot of scummy foam (yes it does not sound pleasant) on the top. This does not always happen. It just depends on what is coming out from the bones.
Once done, let your stock pot cool in a shock-bath. Fill your sink bay with cold water and set your pot in there. The coldness of the water will draw the heat from the pot. One shock will not make a big pot icy cold but much cooler and easier to handle.
Now do your first straining. Put a strainer over big bowl and remove all the large items from your pot with tongs, placing them in the strainer. Let that sit for a while then discard the scrap. Pour your drained liquids back in the pot.
Take another large vessel, another large pot is fine, and place a fine strainer lined with cheese cloth over it. I rinse and squeeze out my cheesecloth so I do not get lint in my liquid. Start to pour your stock thru the cheese cloth lined strainer, slowly. Strain the rest of your batch and place your newly filled pot in the fridge to settle over night.
The next day, remove any fats that have layered on top and slowly pour or ladle your beautiful stock into containers. Freeze, use or share but definitely keep refrigerated!
If you are not this ambitious, you can stop by and purchase some from us. We make fresh stock, of various types all the time. I love to cook with elements from basic scratch.
Enjoy!

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Then Bittersweet It Is






What a lovely cold, brisk morning walk. The dogs anxiously pull me along as I eye new colors of berries on trees and vines that I have never seen before on my walks through Michiana and Grand Beach. We walk along, as I think about my day in the kitchen, and what I am going to make today. Thanksgiving is right around the corner and I will be cooking like crazy, preparing special orders for all my lovely, very special clients. I always feel like a bit of myself is at their table as I prepare their foods with as much love and attention as I do my own.
Little random thoughts creep forward from the back of my mind. What am I going to name the cabin? I have been working on it for 10 years now. All these beautiful names that I come up with when I am in England, just don't stick when I come home. I wonder what Eva & Sherri are doing for Thanksgiving? I need to call and ask them. Should I make cookies today? I haven't made those lovely iced cut-outs in a while. They sell like mad but they are very labor intensive. I sure miss Amanda. She was the best cookie designer ever. The other young ones that work for me never understand the importance of that piped outside line.
Then we turn off Old Grand Beach road, toward the Dunes Theatre that is shut down for the winter. We come upon the loveliest, intense swirls of vines completely dripping with bittersweet berries. I decide that this is too amazing, and must send some to my dear Aunt Louise. I made her cry last year when I sent them. It was purely unintentional. I remember as a little girl, her teaching me about the beautiful berries and how they pop open as they dry. I did not know the story of how she and her childhood friend Gussie, would venture deep into the woods in Massachusetts every fall and gather Bittersweet branches from their favorite hiding spot that no one else knew about.
Now the dogs reluctantly slow their hurried pace and allow me to twist off some beautiful branches to send to my dear aunt. Unfortunately not all I touch are dry enough to snap so I end up snipping off the bits to pack and ship. Small garden shears are a must and always with me on our walks. You never know what beautiful, wild blooms you will find on your journey. All of a sudden, it becomes perfectly clear to me. I will name the cabin "Bittersweet". That is perfect!
Yes, now my entire day is unfolding in focus. I will call Eva & Sherri and make cookies. And prepare some Bittersweet vines and goodies to ship to my aunt.

All that, and we got our morning exercise in too. Off to the kitchen I go....