Sunday, November 22, 2009

Venison Stock... Dem Bones

Aaah, there is nothing like using fresh stock for cooking. I procured some beautiful venison bones from a local butcher that is well known for processing game. So I was thinking of how I wanted to make some amazing, extra special stock to sell in the shop and for preparing sauces for my catering clients.
I thought about the 200 or so spices and herbs I currently possess. Since venison can be so strong in flavor, I want to celebrate and enhance the differences of using venison bones as opposed to using beef bones but mellow any edginess they might have. Another important factor is that this stock will be used in winter time. So, a bit more boldness in flavor is welcome.
To begin, I brush tomato paste on my bones and broil them in a single layer until browned. This will bring out the flavor. Yep, I decided this was a necessary first step, just like beef stock. Now back to my spices and herbs....hmmm, I like the idea of star anise, cinnamon and ginger to start. Not too much of any of these but a delicate presence will be divine. Now let's back that up with some classics.... garlic, bay leaf, peppercorns, parsley (always a great flavor filter), onion, definitely thyme, some chopped carrots and celery too.
Put all those goodies in a large heavy bottom pot and cover with fresh water. Leave it alone. Don't mess with it and don't add salt. I learned from an elderly Asian chef a long time ago to never salt anything in the beginning stages of cooking. Salt can bring out bitterness and with seafood, it makes seafood tough. I always salt at the end of cooking, and I often do not salt my stocks at all. There is plenty of time to adjust the flavors later.
Bring this big cauldron of goodies to a strong simmer, not a full boil. When reaching this point, back down on your flame so the surface is not disturbed while continuing to simmer. I usually brew a full stock pot for 2-3 hours undisturbed. You might want to skim the surface if you see a lot of scummy foam (yes it does not sound pleasant) on the top. This does not always happen. It just depends on what is coming out from the bones.
Once done, let your stock pot cool in a shock-bath. Fill your sink bay with cold water and set your pot in there. The coldness of the water will draw the heat from the pot. One shock will not make a big pot icy cold but much cooler and easier to handle.
Now do your first straining. Put a strainer over big bowl and remove all the large items from your pot with tongs, placing them in the strainer. Let that sit for a while then discard the scrap. Pour your drained liquids back in the pot.
Take another large vessel, another large pot is fine, and place a fine strainer lined with cheese cloth over it. I rinse and squeeze out my cheesecloth so I do not get lint in my liquid. Start to pour your stock thru the cheese cloth lined strainer, slowly. Strain the rest of your batch and place your newly filled pot in the fridge to settle over night.
The next day, remove any fats that have layered on top and slowly pour or ladle your beautiful stock into containers. Freeze, use or share but definitely keep refrigerated!
If you are not this ambitious, you can stop by and purchase some from us. We make fresh stock, of various types all the time. I love to cook with elements from basic scratch.
Enjoy!